Datong Ecotourism Series 02 "eat a mountain and guard a mountain: the Atayal story dining table of the Hanxi tribe."

Published: 2024-06-20 Author: mysheen
Last Updated: 2024/06/20, Datong Ecotourism Series 02 "eat a mountain and guard a mountain: the Atayal story dining table of the Hanxi tribe."


"slightly cool in autumn and winter, under the guidance of the aboriginal nationalities committee-Datong Township Lanyangxi eco-tourism support industrial settlement program, Ma Aiyun, a teacher of" Taiwan Ecological Chef Program ", was invited to the Hanxi tribe to gather with the people of the five Atayal tribes in Datong, namely, Yingshi, Leshui, Hanxi, Songluo, and Zhuan, to conduct a course dialogue that integrates mountain and forest fields, natural ingredients and Atayal food culture. "

On that day, the people came to collect natural food and flowers around the tribe, and pots and pans went to the camping site of the Hanxi tribe. This tribal dining table specially extends outdoors. Under the year-round damp and steamy mountain forest, teacher Ma Aiyun chose a flat stone as the table against the withered branches and green ferns in the background and the yellow leaves laid out like carpets under the Jiuxiong forest. A grand banquet was held to allow food to have a dialogue with the natural field.

The Hanxi tribe named the table "Yata's tribal kitchen". "Yata" means a Mesozoic woman in the Atayal language. in the past, men went out hunting, and the mothers of several families took care of it as they do today. Among these ten dishes, in addition to the common passing cats, roasted brook fish and self-pickled mountain pork, several of them are particularly innovative and ingenious in the traditional diet of Atayal.

The protagonist of the dish "Love in the Cold Creek" is the snail, which happens to be pronounced like "love" in the Atayal language, so it takes the homonym as the name of the dish. Hanxi people wash the sticky body fluid of African snails, add pickled ginger, sliced garlic, carrots, and wrap them with lettuce to taste crisp and refreshing. "Atayal Daily" transforms the glutinous rice and pickled raw meat that Atayal people often eat into the form of holding sushi, and mixes sticky rice with millet, black rice and white rice to make the rice taste more moderate, and then covers it with a piece of cured raw meat roasted by fire. Hanxi mother said with a smile: "many Han Chinese friends are not used to the taste of" Tmmyan "(Atayal, meaning pickled raw meat). In order not to be afraid. Will want to send this entry. "

In addition, such as gathering, hunting, and setting traps, it is also the daily life and diet of the Atayal people. on this day, the soup is made from collected rattan heart boiled ribs. It is said that after the rattan heart is picked somewhere in the mountain forest, it will take ten years to regrow before it can be harvested again. In addition, the gathering process is very difficult because the yellow vine is full of sharp thorns, so this soup is also known as "Atayal Warrior Soup." On the other hand, the roast bamboo chicken on the dinner table is the natural game caught by the tribe's self-made traps. When it comes to wild animals, people from different tribes at the scene discuss enthusiastically: "the path of bamboo chicken is very simple, and traps are set in the same place." can be caught again and again, on the contrary, a more clever animal like the mountain boar will become the boss if it is injured and fled as a result of the trap. Because they know how to share experiences with other individuals in the group! "

Also through the collection of penholder tree hearts, the origin of cuisine is closely related to architecture. Because in the early years the tribe used to cut down the stem of the tree fern as a pillar of building materials, the rest of the tender heart would be eaten. Now the demand for natural building materials is reduced, only take fern heart to use, cut off the outer golden hair, quickly chill to avoid oxidation and discoloration, and then stir-fry vegetables quickly to maintain brittleness.

The Atayal, who attach great importance to collecting ethics, if a penholder tree has three fern hearts, choose only one of them, and deliberately keep the other two hearts growing continuously, so as to achieve the sustainability and balance of the mountains and forests. Ma Aiyun, a teacher who has studied ecological diet for many years, observed from the side: "the aboriginal concept of collecting ── is that I survived, and at the same time, let the other person also survive." When the Atayal are using a mountain, they are actually guarding a mountain so that natural resources can be eaten more and more vigorously! "

↑ Hanxi tribe women transform the daily diet culture and recreate it.


Pumpkins planted by the tribe


Self-cured mountain pork


"Love Cold Creek" based on snails


Banana decoration


Grilled brook fish


Roast bamboo chicken


Stir-fry pen container tree heart


Atayal is a daily blend of bacon and glutinous rice.

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Hanxi Taiya Yata table

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